Michel
Briday and his son, Stephane, run the Briday family domaine in Rully.
Their cellars are located in the heart of the medieval village of
Rully. The appellation of Rully is the first wine district of the Cote
Chalonnaise and is the southward extension of Santenay and Chassagne,
punctuated by the valley town of Chagny. The Chardonnay vines are
planted on the best hillside sites on clay-limestone soils, at varying
altitudes. The Bridays harvest by hand and ferment their whites in
stainless steel tanks. The wines are assembled and bottled the next
fall, after the harvest. The Bridays produce some of the most stylish
and rich wines of the Cote Chalonnaise.
The Briday Rully Blanc comes from four, south-east facing parcels of vines. The Rully AC
vineyard lies near the bottom of the slope where the clay content in
the soil is higher, and this makes the wine exceptionally ripe and
plump. The vines average 30 years of age. The Rully AC is a rich,
concentrated Chardonnay with flavors of ripe pears, citrus and hints of
clove. It is vinified in one-third barrel and two-thirds tanks. The two
parts are blended before bottling in September. The wine is ready to be
enjoyed upon release with full-flavored fish dishes, as well fowl and
veal. Briday’s Rully represents remarkable value in white Burgundy,
being less than half the cost of comparable wines from the Cote de
Beaune. Briday’s top Rully bottlings are his two Premier Crus from
clay-limestone slopes. The Rully Premier Cru Gresigny
vineyard, planted on the top of slope on white marl soil, is Briday’s
most structured Rully. It merits a few years of bottle aging. The Rully Premier Cru La Pucelle
vineyard gives a wine of remarkable complexity and depth. Both are aged
and vinified 50% in tank and 50% in oak casks, and can be compared
favorably to a village Chassagne or Puligny.
New to the USA market is the Mercurey 1er Cru Rouge Clos Marcilly.
This exceptional south-east facing Clos has 35-year-old vines which are
treated organically. The grapes are harvested manually and given a
3-day cold maceration before fermentation. Fermentation begins with the
native yeasts and there is daily pigeage and remontage for maximum
extraction during the vinfication period, which lasts between 15 and 20
days. The wine is matured in oak casks for one year before bottling
without fining or filtering. The wine is brimming with ripe, sweet
wild-raspberry and black cherry fruit and represents a remarkable
value.
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