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Domaine
Eugene Carrel is located in the village of Jongieux, which is the
largest of the 17 appellations of the Savoie region, in the beginnings
of the French Alps. It is situated about 40 miles southwest of Geneva,
in between the Rhone River (near its start) and Lake Bourget, France's
largest lake. The Jongieux vineyards are very steep, southwest facing
slopes created by ancient glaciers. The altitude is between 400 and 500
meters, yet the microclimate is very warm. The privileged
clay-limestone slopes of the Jongieux appellation allow the grapes to
ripen more fully than in any other Savoy regions, due to 2-3 hours more
sun daily. As a result, the wines are not only fuller, but also more
balanced and fresher, because there is far less need for
chaptalization. Indeed, the regions’ top Cru, Marestel, is located in
Jongieux.
Domaine
Carrel’s
clients include virtually every local restaurant, Paris bistros, as
well as top Savoie gastronomic destinations such as Veyrat. Little
wonder, then, that their wines were unknown in the USA -- until now!
Sebastian Carrel, who represents the third generation at the estate,
has recently expanded his property and sought to export a small
proportion of his production. The estate cultivates the traditional
varieties of the region, namely Jacquere (sold as Vin de Savoie
Jongieux Banc), Altesse, and the unique red Mondeuse.
The Jongieux Blanc,
made from the native Jacquere grape, exemplifies Hugh Johnson's
characterization of this varietal: "you are drinking bottled mountain
air." Working with fully ripe, yet delicate grapes with a low natural
sugar/alcohol level, Carrel uses a pneumatic press to extract flavor
and aromas, and ferments in stainless steel tanks at lower
temperatures. He blocks the malolactic fermentation and keeps a small
amount of the wine’s natural CO2 to further enhance its freshness and
vitality. Bottling takes place in January, after the wine is stabilized
in the naturally cold Alpine ambiance.
The Altesse, also known
as Rousette de Savoie,
ripens more fully and is never chapaltalized. The region’s warm
microclimate enables this unique varietal, which originated in Cyprus
and was planted in the Savoy region for the first time in the 15th
century, to thrive. Indeed, although it was wiped out by phyloxera, the
Altesse was replanted in Jongieux after WWII. Carrel ferments places in
thermo-regulated tanks and allows malolactic formation to occur for
only two-thirds of the volume, to ensure that the wine is both lively
and rich. The wine’s ample texture and apple, citrus, apricot, and
melon notes place it somewhere in between a Chardonnay from the Cotes
de Beaune and a Marsanne-Rousane from the Rhone.
Mondeuse,
the region’s principal red grape, is deeply colored and tastes of
spicy, wild berries and dark plums. It ripens late, and Carrel prunes
severely and strips leaves to enhance maturity of the fruit. Carrel
ages his Mondeuse in neutral oak casks for 8 months to allow its
structure and power to come into balance before release. This wine is
prized with local game and cheese dishes.
While
the Savoyard varietals maybe unknown, and the labeling somewhat
confusing, the three Domaine Carrel wines deliver original and
expressive flavors that are in perfect harmony with the wide variety of
foods we enjoy today. They are compelling and accessible wines from a
superb winemaker that await discovery.
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