Mentou-Salon
is the name of a quaint country village about 20 minutes southwest of
Sancerre. The production is 80% white wine from Sauvignon Blanc and 20%
red, from Pinot Noir. Since Mentou-Salon is on the same side of the
Loire River as its more famous neighbor Sancerre, it shares same fossil
rich soils (called Kimmeridgean limestone) yet gives a wine with its
own unique personality. Domaine de Chatenoy is owned by Pierre Clement,
whose family have been winegrowers here since 1560 (14 generations.)
and the Clements own some of the finest hillside vineyards in the
appellation.
Pierre Clement
has raised the quality of his Mentou-Salon wines to new heights. He has
equipped his winery with most up-to-date equipment, to ensure the most
gentle handling of the fruit and the full extraction of aromas and
flavors. Clement vinfies his Sauvignon Blanc grapes using one-third
maceration pelliculaire, or maceration with the skins. The temperature
of the juice is lowered as the fermentation begins slowly, using only
native yeasts. The young wine is left on its fine lees in
temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks through the winter and is
bottled after a light filtration in March. The Domaine de Chatenoy Mentou-Salon Blanc
is an amazingly vivid wine, bursting with aromas of citrus, white peach
and flowers. On the palate, it has good concentration, with flavors of
red grapefruit, apricot, and minerals. In her A Wine and Food Guide to
the Loire, Jacqueline Friedrich rates Domaine de Chatenoy an
“Excellent” producer, calling his Menetou-Salon white “super.” This is
must-discover wine, both for its value and vivid flavors that match
perfectly with lobster and scallops, as well as river fish, white
meats, vegetable pastas and rissoti.
Pierre studied oenology in Dijon and his savoir faire with Pinot Noir is evident in the Mentou-Salon Rouge.
His Pinot Noir is made from 30-year-old vine planted on ideal
clay-limestone soils. The grapes are all harvested by hand and yields
are kept to 45hl/ha. At the winery, one-third of the fruit is
destemmed. Cuvaison lasts
15-20 days with regular pumping over (remontage) and pushing down of
the skins (pigeage) in order to attain the highest level of extraction
of color and flavor as possible in the vintage. Both alcoholic and
malolactic fermentation takes place (as in Burgundy) in oak casks, one
third of which are new each year. Only native yeasts are used. The
aging period lasts a full year, and the wine is bottled in the fall,
before the next harvest, and then ages for 6 months in bottle before
release. Approximately 4000 cases are produced each year. The Chatenoy
Menetou-Salon Rouge is an outstanding, sappy, dark-berry flavored
mid-weight Pinot Noir that has depth and personality to spare. It is
certainly the Loire’s finest Pinot Noir.
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