Domaine
Jean Chauvenet crafts concentrated, lushly textured – and delicious --
Nuits St. Georges wines. The Chauvenet family traces its roots as
vignerons in Nuits St. Georges back to 1680. Jean Chauvenet expanded
the family holdings to include several 1er Cru vineyard plots while
also increasing the amount of wine that was bottled at the domaine
instead of being sold to negociants. Jean retired in 1994 and
Christophe Drag, his son-in-law, assumed the management of the domain.
The
estate owns 9.5 hectares of vineyards across the Nuits St. Georges
appellation. About 75% of the vines are Nuits “villages” while the
balance consists of select parcels in the finest 1er Cru vineyards
sites. The vines average 45 years of age and are planted in the
traditional high density of 10,000 vines per hectare. Soils on the
northern of Vosne side of the appellation (Damodes, Bousselots) are
primarily pebbles and limestone with a little clay. Soils in the
southern sector (Rue de Chaux, Vaucrains) are deeper, brown limestone.
Drag plants grass between the rows of vines for two reasons: they
create a natural competition for water on the surface, thus forcing the
vine roots to search deeper in the soil for water and nutrients,
keeping the grapes small and concentrated. Further, the grasses also
absorb a great deal of surface water that naturally reduces the threat
of rot in humid years. Yields average 35hl/ha. Drag prunes severely to
restrict the number of bunches to between 6 and 8 per vine, thereby
avoiding the need to due a major green harvest. Further, Drag trains
his vines in the Guyot Longue fashion, so as to ensure better aeration
and ripening (and lessening the need for treatments.) Harvest is
carried out entirely by hand by a team of 40 pickers and lasts one
week. The grapes are hand-selected in the vineyards before being
transported to the winery.
Christophe
Drag destems all the fruit and begins vinification with a four day,
pre-fermentation cold maceration, at 10 degree Centigrade (the level at
which the yeasts remain inactive.) He believes that this "cold soak"
captures the Pinot Noir’s aromas and flavors and gives silkier tannins.
Fermentation begins in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks,
with a 3-4 week maceration period. Drag carries out 2 pigeages per day
to ensure the maximum extraction of color and flavor. The wines are
aged for 18 to 20 months in barrels, of which 15% (for the Nuits AC) or
20-25% (for the 1ers Crus) are new. Drag prefers a very slow malolactic
fermentation because it diminishes the wine’s SO2 level while enhancing
freshness and purity of flavor. He racks the wines off their lees and
then assembles the cuvees in tank for one month before bottling without
fining or filtration in April or May.
The Nuits St Georges AOC derives
from 5 parcels of vines in the northern part of the appellation that
gives more generous wines. The parcels (Saint Jacques, Les Allots, Les
Lavieres, Les Charmottes, and Les Athees) are located at the base of
the slope, where the soils are richest and warmest. The vines average
40 years of age. Wine Spectator captures its essence: “Terrific
expression. Rich, wild berry and black fruit aromas and flavors get
texture from the dense tannins. Yet it all remains fresh and
delineated, with mineral and earth notes on the long, energetic
finish.” ( 92 score. WS, 11/15/07, p. 202)
The Nuits St Geroges 1er Cru Rue de Chaux
climat is located just south of the town of Nuits, in the middle
section of the appellation. It is the first 1er Cru climat in the band
of 1er Crus south of Nuits. Here the Domaine Chauvenet owns about ¼ of
a hectare of vines that are 70 years of age. The warm soil and old
vines gives a sumptuous wine, with rich black cherry and berry fruit.
Wine Spectator acclaims its “gorgeous black cherry and black currant
fruit flavors are shaded by iron and mineral elements. Lively with firm
tannins and intensity that builds through the long, mineral-infused
aftertaste. (92 score WS 11/15.07, p. 202.)
The
2005 vintage is one for the record books in Burgundy, and the wines of
Domaine Chauvenet are among its highlights. These are Christophe Drag’s
comments on the vintage, as quoted in Burghound.com: 2005 was “very
homogenous in terms of grape quality. The bunches had very thick skins
which gave up their pigments easily and resulted in deeply colored
wines. We began picking on September 24th and sugars were very strong
at between 13.5 and 14.3% and we did not chaptalize plus we had very
good yields in a range of 37 to 42 hl/ha, which for us is quite a bit.
The vinifications were easy and straightforward as the crop was so
clean and the phenolics so ripe that there wasn’t much to do. As we
have done since 2003, I punched down only once a day versus the 2 to 3
times that I employed before. The malos were extended, which is a good
thing as the wines were full of gas and thus protected without undue
SO2 use. Overall, I think 2005 is a great vintage but one that will
require time. Still, it will be worth the wait as it’s better balanced
than 2002 and more concentrated than 1999.” (April, 2007).
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