Domaine
Dupont-Tisserandot is a fourth-generation family estate located in the
heart of Gevrey-Chambertin. Winemaking at the 20-hectare domaine is in
the hands of Didier Chevillion, son-in-law of Bernard Dupont, who has
retired. Didier has taken the venerable property to new heights of
quality and recognition.
Didier
Chevillion aims for deeply concentrated Gevreys that show the
distinctions of their individual terroirs of origin and above all the
essence of Gevrey Chambertin – namely licorice-tinged, supple black
fruit with notes of spice and sweetness. The grapes are hand-picked and
sorted in the vineyard and at the winery. The grapes are totally
de-stemmed and are given a cold maceration at 12 degrees centigrade for
5 to 8 days. Fermentation, begun with natural yeasts, lasts between 15
and 18 days, after which the wines are moved to oak casks, of which
100% are new for the 1er and Grand Crus. The wines are aged on their
fine lees, so as to retain the maximum of fruit and freshness, for 18
months before bottling.
The domaine has extensive holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin. The Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir comes from 35 year-old vines at the base of Gevrey village. It is harvested just before the Gevrey AOC
vines, as it ripens early. The Bourgogne is given a shorter (12 day)
vinification period to preserve the tasty and supple black fruit, with
characteristic Gevrey spice.
The domaine’s largest single production is in Gevrey-Chambertin AOC,
where they have 9 hectares spread over nine parcels. The average vine
age is 35 years for the two parcels that are selected for the Domaine’s
villages bottling. It is a generous, ample wine with mouthfilling,
spicy, blackberry fruit. This is a great introduction to Didier
Chevillion’s style.
The domaine owns 2 hectares of 45 year-old vines of Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers,
where the soil ranges from white limestone-marl through
sandy-limestone. Being slightly higher in elevation, the Cazetieres
offers bright, black-cherry fruit underpinned by a fruity acidity. The
finish is remarkably persistent with a touch of minerality a wonderful
“lift” to the fruit.
Dupont-Tisserandot’s
one-hectare holding in 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques has 30 year old vines
planted on clay-limestone soil with the presence of many fossils. This
is the estate’s lushest Gevrey, with supple, generous black fruit that
gives the impression of being sweet on the palate due to its perfect
ripeness.
Dupont-Tisserandot also owns about one-half hectare each of Charmes Chambertin and Mazis Chambertin Grands Crus,
where the vines are respectively 50 and 60 years old. The Charmes has a
thin, linestone-clay topsoil over a sub-soil of pure rock. The Mazis
parcel, situated in the choice “Les Hauts Mazis” section, has yet
thinner soil over solid limestone rock. Yields in both appellations
naturally average a low 35 hl/ha, and are kept at this level through
severe pruning and plowing between the rows in Winter and Spring. The
Charmes is a massive wine with soft ripe tannins and layers of spicy,
dark fruit. The Mazis offers a shade more structure and power, both
buried in the wine’s opulent fruit.
Dupont-Tisserandot
is a domaine to watch! The Wine Spectator of January 31, 2004 awards
the domaine its highest ratings for the 2002 vintage, thus bestowing
well-deserved recognition for the Didier Chevillion’s achievement.
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