The sensational Pouilly Fuisses of Domaine Gilles Morat, owned by Gilles and Joelle Morat, are new to the USA. The estate has been in their family for 5 generations but the wines were sold in bulk until recently. The name “Chataigneraie-Laborier” is the name of the site where the estate is located and denotes a 19th century plantation of chestnut trees (chataignes) by a certain Mr. Laborier. The Morat’s vineyards are all on the steep, east-facing amphitheater slopes of the commune of Vergisson, which is the very heart of the Pouilly Fuisse appellation. The famed Roche de Vergisson is the defining landmark of this region. The soils are a mixture of clay and limestone, and vary in exact composition from parcel to parcel, a factor that adds complexity to the wines. The soils are worked naturally, and are regularly ploughed, often by hand. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and minimal applications of natural fertilizer and strict pruning keep yields low. Harvesting is all done by hand, with careful selection The wine is raised entirely on its lees in barrels for 10 to 12 months. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in the barrels, and the wine is kept on its lees, which are periodically stirred to enhance flavor and nuance, throughout the elevage. Gilles Morat prefers Allier oak from the center of France for its fine texture. He uses about 15% new oak, with the balance being from one to five years old. Bottling usually takes place just before the new harvest.

The perfect introduction to Gilles Morat’s precision-winemaking is his basic Pouilly Fuisse AOC bottling, of which 2004 is the first vintage made. It is made from hand-harvested Chardonnay grapes from several hillside parcels with different soils. For this cuvee, Morat chooses to ferment and age the wine in 60% stainless steel tanks and 40% barrels, which are several years old and hence do not impart oaky flavors. Morat’s goal is to produce a wine that shows the intensity and purity characteristic of outstanding vineyards and winemaking, but which is also very accessible upon release for its expressive and vivid fruit. The Pouilly Fuisse Belemnites bottling comes from various hillside parcels in Vergisson possessing varying geologic characteristics: limestone, a high level of clay, and a strong presence of fossils. The term “Belemnite” refers to one type of these fossils. The parcels are selected for the age of the vines and their small yields, giving a wine of striking aromatic intensity, purity, and stunning concentration and elegance.

The Pouilly Fuisse La Roche comes from a parcel of 40 year old vines situated on stony, limestone soil under the rock outcropping of Vergisson. The protected location allows for remarkable ripening; indeed, plant species are found here that are otherwise only in southern France. At an altitude of 300-350 meters, the vines are not affected by morning fog; rather they absorb all the heat of the day, which is relieved by cool nights. Indeed, the relatively high altitude helps preserve the wines acidity and freshness. The La Roche has an exceptional texture: rich and round with notes of smoke and minerals, while positively in the house style of purity and finesse.