Gilles
and Joelle Morat founded Domaine Gilles Morat in Vergisson in 1997.
Gilles’ father and grandfather owned vines in Vergisson but had always
sold their grapes to negociants. After 15 years in the electronics
industry, Gilles decided it was time to move back to his home town so
that his children would be able to enjoy the same life that he had
while growing up. After spending one year in wine school in Davaye,
Gilles combined his father's vines with additional parcels and began
his new domaine. The winery is located high in village of Vergisson on
a site known as “Chataigneraie-Laborier” which denotes a 19th century
plantation of chestnut trees (chataignes) by a certain Monsieur Laborier.
From
the outset, Gilles’ vision was to bottle the majority of his production
and make wine in the elegant and pure style which has become his
hallmark. After some experimentation, Gilles found two local barrel
makers who could provide him with the type of oak barrels that would
enhance the style of wine he sought. The soil and site specific cuvees of Belemnites and La Roche were launched in 2001.
The
Morat’s vineyards are all on the steep, east-facing amphitheater slopes
of the commune of Vergisson, which is the very heart of the Pouilly
Fuisse appellation. The famed Roche de Vergisson is the defining
landmark of this region, with the Rock of Solutre forming the southern
limit of the cirque or amphitheatre. The altitude of the vineyards is a very high 300 to 450 (for the La Roche cuvee)
meters. The soils are a mixture of clay and limestone, and vary in
exact composition from parcel to parcel, a factor that adds complexity
to the wines. The soils are worked naturally, and are regularly plowed,
often by hand. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and minimal
applications of natural fertilizer and strict pruning keep yields low.
Harvesting is all done by hand, with careful selection. The wine
is raised entirely on its lees in barrels for 10 to 12 months.
Alcoholic fermentation takes place in the barrels, and the wine is kept
on its lees, which are periodically stirred to enhance flavor and
nuance, throughout the elevage.
Gilles Morat prefers Allier oak from the center of France for its fine
texture. He uses about 15% new oak, with the balance being from one to
five years old. Bottling usually takes place just before the new
harvest .
The perfect introduction to Gilles Morat’s precision-winemaking is his basic Pouilly Fuisse AOC bottling, of which 2004 is the first vintage made. It is made from
hand-harvested Chardonnay grapes from several hillside parcels with
different soils. For this cuvee, Morat chooses to ferment and age the
wine in 60% stainless steel tanks and 40% barrels, which are several
years old and hence do not impart oaky flavors. Morat’s goal is to
produce a wine that shows the intensity and purity characteristic of
outstanding vineyards and winemaking, but which is also very accessible
upon release for its expressive and vivid fruit. The Pouilly Fuisse Belemnites
bottling comes from various hillside parcels in Vergisson possessing
varying geologic characteristics: limestone, a high level of clay, and
a strong presence of fossils. The term “Belemnite” refers to one type
of these fossils. The parcels are selected for the age of the vines and
their small yields, giving a wine of striking aromatic intensity,
purity, and stunning concentration and elegance.
The Pouilly Fuisse La Roche comes from a parcel of 40 year old vines situated on stony, limestone
soil under the rock outcropping of Vergisson. The protected location
allows for remarkable ripening; indeed, plant species are found here
that are otherwise only in southern France. At an altitude of about 400
meters, the vines are not affected by morning fog; rather they absorb
all the heat of the day, which is relieved by cool nights. Indeed, the
relatively high altitude helps preserve the wines acidity and
freshness. The La Roche has an exceptional texture: rich and round with
notes of smoke and minerals, while positively in the house style of
purity and finesse.
