Beginning
with the 1993 vintage, Jean-Francois Mestre assumed control of the
vineyards and winemaking at Domaine Michelot, the famed 22 hectare
Meursault estate. Mestre, who is married to one of Bernard Michelot’s
four daughters, has reinvigorated this large domaine and today the
wines are once again counted among Meursault’s finest.
A wide range is
offered, ranging from an oak-aged Bourgogne Chardonnay through six,
village level lieu dit
wines, to three great Meursault Premier Crus: Genevrieres, Charmes and
Perrieres, as well as exceptional Bourgogne Pinot Noir and Santenay 1er
Cru Comme. Vinification is traditional, and the white wines
are
quickly moved into casks to complete their alcoholic and malolactic
fementations. One third new oak is used. The wines benefit from
extended contact with the lees and regular battonage, which
contributes to their rich and expressive character. To enhance the
wines’ vivacity, after 12 months the cuvees
are assembled into temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks where
they complete their maturation over the next 6 months. The estate’s
entire production now appears under the Domaine Michelot label.
Domaine
Michelot’s “reasoned” vineyard practices aim at maintaining a balanced
natural environment. The goal is to encourage the vine’s natural
resistance mechanisms. They regularly plow the soils and
apply
compost (and not chemical fertilizers). Grass is planted
between
all the rows to absorb water, thereby creating a condition of mild
hydric stress for the wines. This condition serves 3 purposes: it
encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil, enhancing the wine’s
complexity; it makes for healthier grapes while concentrating their
sugar and flavors; and it creates an environment in which vine maladies
caused by moisture are naturally prevented. In July, the
Michelot
team removes leaves on the east-facing sides of the vines to ensure
aeration of the bunches and enhance ripening.
The BOURGOGNE BLANC
comes from the domain’s 3 hectares of south-east facing vineyards at
the base of the Meursault slope. The vines, which average 35 years of
age, are in the commune of Meursault but are just outside the Meursault
appellation because they are on flatter ground. The soil is an ideal
mix of limestone and clay over a gravel subsoil; it retains heat and
drains well. The vineyard is plowed and grass is planted between the
rows; no herbicides and chemical fertilizers are used. The ripe
Chardonnay grapes are handled in exactly the same manner as for the
Meursaults. The grapes are selected in the vineyard and again at the
winery on a sorting table. They are pressed in a pneumatic press,
lightly clarified, and then descended by gravity into barrels for the
alcoholic and malolactic fermentations. The wine is aged in
oak
casks, of which 20% are new, for 10 months and then assembled into
tanks to preserve freshness before bottling. The Michelot Bourgogne
Chardonnay is a fine introduction to the estate’s style and a super
value. It could easily pass for a basic Meursault, as it has all the
typicity of the appellation: deep citrus flavors intermingled with
toasty notes.
The domaine’s BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
comes from a one hectare parcel in the commune of Meursault (but just
outside AOC Meursault) at the base of the Limozin slope, in the lieu dit
“Les Coutures.” Half of the vines are 69 years old and the other half
are 10 years of age, having been recently replanted. The soil is an
ideal mix of limestone and clay over a gravel subsoil. This terroir
enhances ripening – it retains heat and drains well – and also imparts
a complex minerality and subtle structure to the wine. The grapes are
hand picked and sorted in the vineyard, transported to the winery in
small plastic crates (to prevent crushing) and then sorted again at the
winery. The grapes are destemmed and given a brief, cold
maceration to enhance the wine’s fruit and color. Alcoholic
fermentation proceeds over 12 days with gentle pumping over of the
solids, to avoid over-extraction. After the addition of press-wine, the
Pinot Noir is racked and put into barrels which are one third each new
and one and two years old. The aging period for the Pinot Noir is
between 9 - 12 months and malolactic fermentation takes place in cask.
The wine is assembled and aged in tank for two months before bottling.
To preserve the soft, generous fruit of the 2007 vintage, wine-maker
Jean-Francois Mestre bottled the Pinot Noir early, in July of 2008, and
allowed it to age in bottle for a further six months before release.
The MEURSAULT SOUS LA VELLE
vineyard is located at the base of the slope at an altitude of 220
meters on a clay-gravel soil. The Michelot parcel of just
under
one and half hectare has vines averaging 78 years of age. The vines are
in excellent health, and J-F Mestre fully expects them to continue to
produce well into their next century. Vines this old regularly give
consistently ripe grapes, no matter the conditions of the vintage,
because their roots are so deep. The Sous la Velle is the most forward,
early-drinking of the Michelot wines and is a great introduction to the
house style.
The MEURSAULT CLOS ST FELIX
is a monopole
vineyard located just behind the Michelot home and winery. It is named
for its 18th century owner, Monsieur Thirou de Saint Felix, who was an
official during the reign of Louis XV, The Clos’ limestone-clay soil,
over a gravel subsoil, retains heat and drains well. As a result, the
30-year-old vines ripen early and are the first to be harvested at the
Michelot domaine. The Clos St Felix has a fine, full-bodied structure
and very elegant, ripe fruit. This is a classic, generous Meursault
that is ready to be enjoyed upon release with a wide range of seafood
and white meat dishes.
Domaine
Michelot owns just over one hectare in the LES NARVAUX
vineyard. These vines average 65 years of age. The Narvaux
site
lies above 1er Cru Genevrieres and below Les Tillets. The soil here is
a unique mix of limestone-clay over hard, white rock (limestone marl).
The vine roots penetrate through the numerous cracks in the limestone
bedrock, imparting minerality and complexity to the wine. These
qualities are completed by the ripeness the site creates, due to its
Southern exposure and consistent slope. Michelot’s Narvaux combines the
qualities of elegance, complexity, freshness and richness. It is a joy
to drink as a baby 1er Cru.
The MEURSAULT LE LIMOZIN
is located on the slope directly below the Genevrieres 1er Cru
vineyard. The vines average 40 years old and the soil is decomposed
limestone rock. The Le Limozin is a rich, and elegant Meursault, that
is characteristic of the Genevrieres slope. Flavors of peach,
pear, honey and citrus combine with notes of spice and harmoniously
integrated oak. Michelot’s Le Limozin has superb balance, finesse and
aging potential.
Michelot owns
just over one hectare in the LES
NARVAUX vineyard, where the vines are 35 years old. The
site lies above 1er Cru Genevrieres and below Les Tillets. It combines
the elegance and complexity of the latter with the richness and
generosity of the former. The Meursault Narvaux is a supple,
concentrated wine with a silky texture and perfectly mature flavors of
citrus, minerals and oak. It is a joy to drink!
Michelot’s MEURSAULT LES GRANDS CHARRONS
comes from a one hectare plot with 40 year old vines located on
mid-slope, between the village of Meursault and the 1er Cru Les Gouttes
d’Or. The altitude of the parcel ranges from 220 to 280 meters and the
soils range from pure white limestone rock at the top to gravel and
clay at the bottom. The varied soil types and microclimates give the
Grands Charrons its unique blend of richness, elegance and minerality.
The Grands Charrons is a classic Meursault, which is ready to be
enjoyed when young or cellared for 3-7 years.
The MEURSAULT CHARMES 1ER CRU
comes from 50 and 60-year-old vines on the slope situated at the border
of the upper and lower sections of the climat,
at 225 and 250 meters of altitude. The soil is a mixture of limestone
and clay over broken rock plates. These warming factors give the
Charmes its characteristic ripe, round texture and impressive body and
length, complemented by a very stylish use of oak. The Charmes’ flavors
of hazelnuts, white peach and honey are memorable. This is a big yet
not overpowering Meursault that can last for decades. In the words of
Serena Sutcliffe : Michelot offers “…Terrific wines. Big,
rich
Charmes – everybody’s idea of fine Meursault.”
Many
connoisseurs feel that MEURSAULT
GENEVRIERES 1ER CRU
is the quintessential Meursault because it combines the qualities of
opulence, intensity, accessibility and finesse in a unique way. Domaine
Michelot’s Genevrieres does just that par excellence.
Their three-quarters of a hectare, steeply sloping parcel is located in
the middle of site, on a limestone-clay soil over a white-limestone,
primary rock base. The vines are between 20 and 55 years of age and the
altitude is an ideal 250-275 meters. The perfect blend of
soil,
exposition, and altitude allows for the perfect ripening of healthy
grapes which yield a Meursault 1er Cru that is memorable for the
interplay of lively citrus fruit, nutty richness, and invigorating
length. The Michelot Genevrieres can be enjoyed when young or aged for
10 or more years.
MEURSAULT PERRIERES 1ER CRU
is often considered the finest site of the appellation and Michelot’s
example shows why. Michelot has two parcels in this climat,
amounting to one-half of a hectare in total, on the border with
Puligny-Montrachet, at 250 to 300 meters altitude. One parcel is next
to the Clos des Perrieres, above the Charmes Dessus, on a limestone
clay-soil. The other is at the top of the site, above the quarry, with
extremely light and stony soil over white limestone. These terroirs
create a very racy, intense, minerally, high-toned, even steely wine.
The long and penetrating flavors are in the citrus (lime and
grapefruit) and spice (white pepper) vein. The Perrieres reaches its
optimum at about 10 years of age.
Michelot’s PULIGNY-MONTRACHET AOC is
exceptionally full bodied and complex for a village wine. Its
origins lie in two parcels, both bordering famed Puligny 1er Crus
(namely, Les Perrieres, with a gravelly soil, and Clavaillon with its
clay-dominant terroir). This gives Domaine Michelot the
opportunity to blend the two sites to attain a Puligny-Montrachet AOC
that is exceptionally rich, well-defined and elegant. The taste is pure
Puligny: peach, green pear, quince and spice are integrated with notes
of minerals from the soils and a touch of vanilla judiciously imparted
from the oak barrels and lifted by soft, fruity acidity. It
is
ready to enjoy with a wide range of foods upon release.
