Jean-Maurice
Raffault’s famed Chinon estate is now run by his son Rodolphe. Chinon
is located in the central Loire valley, near Tours, and is the
northernmost French red wine appellation. The family has been vignerons
in Chinon since 1693 and the estate now comprises 40 hectares spread
over 6 communes. Raffault harvests his Cabernet Francs as late as
possible and vinifies each soil parcel separately. Fermentation can
last up to one month with daily pumping over for maximum extraction of
color and flavors. The wines are then aged in Bordeaux casks in his
remarkable 54 degree cellar caves cut into the limestone slopes and are
bottled without filtration. In his now five years at the helm, Rodolphe
Raffault has taken his venerable family estate to a new level of
excellence and has quickly gained international recognition.
The Raffault specialty is the different cuvees coming from distinct sites. The Chinon AOC
comes from several sites with sandy-gravel soil from the alluival
deposits of the ancient bed of the Loire River, is a wine to be enjoyed
young for its bright, grapey, black-cherry flavors. Raffault’s unique Chinon Rose
is made by the saigne method. It shows bright and lively strawberry
fruit with a long, succulent finish. It is a very versatile wine that
drinks well on its own, or with charcuterie, goat cheese, fish, and
fowl dishes. The Les Galluches
vineyard lies near the river on sandy-gravel soil made up of old
alluvial deposits. This terroir warms very early, so the wine attains a
sweet and lush texture. The Picasses
comes from a chalk soil and shows ripe and pure cassis, raspberry and
violet flavors with great length; the black purple color is striking.
More full bodied and structured still is the Clos d’Isore
which has a clay-limestone soil and is reputed as one of the finest
sites in Chinon. It has deep violet and black fruit flavors intertwined
with minerals and spices. Beginning with the 2001 vintage, Raffault has
released his Clos des Capucins.
This newly acquired, historic site, dating back to 1790, is one of the
finest in Chinon. One and one-half hectares of terraced, vines,
averaging 50 years of age, are planted on a south facing “clos.” The
exposition and clay-siliceous soil ensure exceptional ripening
conditions. The grapes undergo a 28-day period of maceration and
ferment in new and 1-2 year old barriques. The wine is aged for 18
months in Raffault’s limestone caves before bottling. The Clos des
Capucins is Rodolphe Raffault’s “grand cru.”
Raffault’s
Chinon’s are wonderfully expressive wines that go harmonize with a wide
variety of classic French dishes, while their natural fruity acidities
make them fine matches for Asiatic cuisine, grilled fish, and spicy
American foods. For wines of such depth and complexity, they also
represent remarkable value.
|